Senorio de Librares is a small family winery in La Rioja, run by the third generation from vineyards their grandparents planted. The family has made wine for more than a century: their great-grandfather Pedro Maria Espinosa took a gold medal at the 1878 Universal Exhibition in Paris. They work native Rioja varieties only, Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo for the reds and rosados, Viura for the whites, from organically farmed plots around El Villar de Arnedo, Tudelilla and Calahorra at 400 to 600 metres. Malolactic fermentation happens slowly in thick-walled concrete tanks rather than steel. The name itself is a joke about timing: LIBRA for the September harvest, ARIES for the spring when the young wines are ready.
Viura with a quarter Tempranillo Blanco, from the coldest, highest, north-facing plots at around 600m. Picked early and given 24 hours on skins at low temperature. Tropical and stone fruit on the nose, broad and balanced, with an acid snap at the end. Tapas, fish, rice, pasta.
Half Tempranillo, half Garnacha from El Cerro at 550m in Tudelilla, where the Mediterranean climate meets Atlantic influence. Violet pink, strawberry and cherry with hay and cut grass behind. Fresh, good acidity, fruity finish. Summer salads, vegetables, fish in sauce, poultry.
Tempranillo with Garnacha and Mazuela from plots at 400 to 500m, fermented in steel and then through a slow natural malolactic in concrete. Cherry red with a purple edge, primary red fruit, medium and balanced. Tapas, tortilla, semi-cured cheese, stews, grilled meat.
Garnacha on its own from Tudelilla, at the foot of Sierra La Hez at 500m. Half the wine spends two months in French and American oak, half stays in concrete, then the two are blended. Intense cherry red with violet hues, fresh strawberry and raspberry with a touch of spice, silky and fine-tannined. Sushi, white meats, a gourmet burger, dark chocolate with sea salt.
Tempranillo from certified organic vineyards in El Villar de Arnedo, fermented on its own yeasts and finished in concrete, where a 25cm wall holds the temperature steady through malolactic. Cherry red, red and black strawberries, floral, with a mineral touch. Blue cheese, red meat in sauce.
Tempranillo and Garnacha from El Villar de Arnedo, on ancient tertiary carbonated clay near 500m, aged at least twelve months in American and fine-grain French oak. Maroon with a terracotta rim, compote fruit, vanilla and coconut, finesse rather than weight. Aged cheeses, sausage, oily fish, marinated meats.
The same organic Tempranillo, finished with at least twelve months in fine-grained French oak. Brick red, ripe red and black fruit giving way to spice, leather and toast, with round enveloping tannins. Grilled red meat, game, cured cheese.
Tempranillo from Finca El Cerro in Tudelilla, sheltered by the sierras, 24 months in French and American oak and at least another twelve in bottle. Ruby with a marked terracotta rim, candied fruit, pastry, spice and leather, long and polished. Aged cheese, game, beef, or on its own at the end of a meal.
Tempranillo and Graciano from vines over forty years old in Calahorra, north-south oriented, very low yields, 4,000 bottles made. Malolactic in new French and American oak on the lees with daily agitation, then an older barrel until the wood steps back. Bottled untreated, so expect some sediment. Oily fish in sauce, game, roast red meat, cream cheeses.
The same Seleccion in 1.5 litres, which is the format that actually ages. One bottle pours around twelve glasses, so it works as a by-the-glass feature or a table wine for a large party.
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