Barroca da Malhada is the estate label of Quinta de Santo Isidro, in Tinalhas in the Beira Interior, looking across at the Serra da Gardunha. Fernando Teixeira de Camargo started the project in 2021 with his sister Luciana, and Fabio Fernandes joined as winemaker in 2023. Of 17.5 hectares, five are vines and five are olive trees, on clay-sandy soil with patches of decomposed granite, farmed organically with biodynamic practices and moving towards BIO certification. Nine varieties, all hand-harvested. The house signature is clay: whole-cluster maceration in ânfora for a month, then months more on the liquid alone, which is where the Dolia line and the Arinto na Ânfora get their texture. Several cuvees carry no added sulphites at all, preserved instead with chestnut-flower powder.
Fernao Pires and Bical, a full month on skins in amphora and eight more on the liquid. A skin-contact white built for the table: lemon yellow, layered, orchard fruit first and then the toast and the earthy amphora note behind it. The acidity is the point. 13%.
Baga and Touriga Nacional, a month on skins in amphora and seven months resting in the same clay. Deep violet ruby, black fruit and balsamic with an earthy edge, tannins already tucked in. Lamb, slow-cooked meat, mushroom risotto. 12%.
Arinto, 80% fermented on skins in amphora and seven months in a 300L talha, the rest in Portuguese chestnut on full lees. No added sulphites: chestnut flower powder does the work instead. Honey, dried flowers, citrus, a vegetal-earthy signature. 12.5%.
The same grape without the clay: fermented in third-use Portuguese chestnut, seven months on full lees, no added sulphites. Gold under the straw, faint toast and brioche against the citrus, and an acidity that runs the whole tasting. Very young, built to keep. 13%.
Trincadeira on its own, blended back from three vessels: used Portuguese oak, amphora and steel. Bright crystalline red, mint and strawberry over something quieter underneath, brioche and vanilla. Tomato and basil risotto, soft cheeses, sashimi. 14%.
Baga vinified pale, steel and second-use chestnut, no added sulphites. Translucent red, raspberry compote, mint and wet clay, juicy and savoury at 11%. The easiest bottle here to put on a by-the-glass list.
Arinto, spontaneous fermentation on indigenous yeasts, unfiltered and unfined, bottled with minimal sulphites. 12%, which makes it the lightest white on this list. Seafood, light pasta, fresh goat cheese.
Baga and Touriga Nacional picked by hand, whole bunches pressed in a vertical basket press, spontaneous fermentation cool and slow, then time on fine lees with batonnage. Clear salmon, subtle rather than loud, fresh red fruit with a floral edge.
Trincadeira and Touriga Nacional, aged across amphora, stainless steel and chestnut barrels. Deep ruby, violet, black cherry and spice, voluminous on the palate with integrated tannins and persistent acidity. 13.5%. Lamb, slow-cooked meat, mushroom risotto.
Touriga Nacional and Baga, hand-harvested, spontaneous fermentation, then a selection from the best barrels at different toast levels, the best steel tanks and the best amphorae. Intense garnet, ripe fruit carrying the toast of the barrel and a faint earthiness from the clay, structured and deep with real precision for a wine this young. 13.5%, and clearly gastronomic.
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